In this particular case, I think the solution is simple, since you noticed she does it when the trace mineral block is gone, then she should have a trace mineral block available at all times. Perhaps you can put the block somewhere the weather can't wear it away. Spotted Pony

In general, the best way to cure a barn sour horse, is to make the barn a somewhat unpleasant place to be. Saddle up and work the horse hard in a safe place near the barn. Then when he is bug eyed and breathing hard, bring him down to a walk and point him down the trail/road away from the barn. Pick a point not to far away and ride him to it and back, he must go to that point calmly and at a walk. If he fusses, bring him back and work him some more until he can calmly go out and come back that distance

I agree, sometimes partnerships just don't work out and it is nessary to try something else. In this case, it sounds like the poster has outgrown these horses. She's taught them and they've taught her and nether are happy with each other. So my advice would be to find new homes for these horses that are more suited and look for more suitable ones. Horses aren't pets like dogs and cats where you are obligated to keep them until they pass on of extreme old age. Just think if you enjoyed

I'll second the Muck boots and recommend Mountain Horse coats and gloves. I have all three, and no matter how cold it has gotten here in western PA, with these items on, I don't feel the cold. Mountain Horse has different styles of coats, so you can pick what best suits your needs. My coat has lots of pockets and zips on the sleeves and under the arms if you get too warm. It also has a hood that would fit over a riding helmet. I love my Mountain Horse coat, it's expensive but worth it

I think your best bet would be to put your horse in training while you are healing. Then when you are healed and starting to ride again, get into lessons with an eye to getting your seat very, very tight. Perhaps lots of lung line lessons and riding without reins and sturrips. Then from there, start riding horses that are slightly more difficult and work up to taking lessons on your horse. The idea with getting your seat tightened up, is when you do start riding your horse again, if she does try

Have his teeth checked. It is likely that he has sharp edges that are irritating the insides of his cheeks, hence the grass wads to ease the pain. Spotted Pony

It sounds like your horse enjoys jumping even though you don't, but that doesn't mean that she won't enjoy Dressage also. Though from what you said about your current instructor's attitude, it's no wonder that you don't enjoy jumping. My suggestion would be to take Dressage lessons on a school horse and on your own horse. That way you'll be able to find out if your horse likes Dressage as much as you do. In any case, learning Dressage will be a big help to your own confidence

How about a Jack Russell or another type of terrier? That's their job, to go after varmits, seek and destory. Spotted Pony

You're right, whips and spurs are tools that can be helpful, but should she be using them right now on a horse that won't even go in the arena for the 'money run'? This mare apparently has pain problems, so how is whipping and spurring going to make her run better when she isn't feeling well? Perhaps she should be using bigger spurs and be giving her a good whipping to let her know that not going in the arena and running her best is not an option? This horse is saying clearly

Is she doing AI or live cover? If AI, she should have a good repo vet come out and check her every day that she is in season, to determine the best time to inseminate. It may be nessary to inseminate more than once to insure she settles. If she is doing live cover, then she should have the stallion tease the mare, and once she is in season and expressing her desire to be bred, have him cover her once a day or everyother day while she is in season. Spotted Pony