Hunters are also judged on their movement. They should have long sweeping strides with good impulsion and little knee action. Over fences the strides should stay rhythmic and even giving an effortless looking performance. Some horses are just not built to move well and have no chance at rated hunter shows while as long as a horse can jump and handle well it has a shot at jumpers.

I know lots of folks who use them and prefer them even for 100 miles endurance rides. I carry a pair just incase since I pulled Roxy's shoes but I haven't needed them yet. I've used them for horses who lost shoes until the farrier could come. http://easycareinc.typepad.com/karen/ Nice detailed site about modifying and using easyboots.

"Lighten with leg!!"-Elizabeth Solter You neeed to increase collection. Applying your leg aids helps bring your horse's hindquarters underneath him allowing him to raise his back and soften his head and neck. It sounds counterintuitive to slow down a horse by applying what many think is the go button... leg pressure... but it sounds like your horse is getting strung out, quickening up to regain his balance and leaning on your hands. Practice slowing down into a circle, DON'T let your hands drop in

I am 2005 Aerospace Engineering graduate of Penn State University and I bought my first horse while a sophomore in college. I don't regret a moment of it! Horses were a huge part of my college experience. The barn "family" really kept me grounded and feeling at home while everything else was changing. And no, my horse did not stay stalled all the time. I went to the barn at least 4-5 times a week often riding 2 or more horses a day. Even with 19 credits per semester I managed my schedule to allow

I have a freeform saddle with the HAF pad and I have the sympatex lining on the bottom of my freeform saddle, too. I would suggest getting a thin square cotton pad to use under the HAF pad for one horse and use the saddle pad as is for the other horse. The pebbly bottom is the sympatex and is more for increased airflow and wicking than it is for gripping.

Don't think about putting your heels down as much as not gripping with you knees or thigh and letting your ankles relax and let the weight of your body sink your heels down. You shouldn't be using the muscles of the front of your leg there to pull your toes up but rather just let gravity do the work. At a halt, stand up in your stirrups. Then let your weight sink into your heels. Feel the stretch down in your ankles with none of your ankle muscles tight and then lightly lower your seat bones into

I just tried a waterford bit today and HOLY COW!!! Roxy loved it. I usually ride her in a copper roller D-ring single jointed snaffle and she sometimes acts odd it it. Leaning on it, sticking her nose out, acting aggravated when I tried to shorten the reins and bring her nose in. It was getting to the point where schooling wasn't fun for either of us, it just seemed like a big struggle the whole time so we've been just trail riding. I didn't think it was the bit since I started her in that bit and

Lucian had some awful windpuffs above his hind fetlocks that never went away. He was run into the ground by the Amish though, all that concussion on his poor legs did it. Roxy developed some after a fretful night pacing the field at a layover but they went away after a week of rest.

I just pulled Roxy's shoes after I brought her to Florida. I tried it one other time in PA, but she was too sore on the shale that was in her pasture. She doesn't stumble anymore whereas she used to trip several times per ride. She has uneven front feet and we're slowly getting them straight now that I can trim them so often and Florida sand hardly wears down any hoof at all.

Thanks for the link... I didn't think to check the yellow pages. Anyone have any first-hand knowledge about stables there? They do not have to be branded unless they are running on open rangelands Most states require a health certificate and coggins.